Saturday 19 January 2013

Tal Chappar - a Dessert in the Desert



The Tal Chappar is a sanctuary in Churu district of Rajasthan, on the fringe of the Great Indian Desert. It contains the most elegant antelope in India, the black buck. The sanctuary with almost flat tract, interspersed with shallow low-lying areas, has open grasslands known as ‘Tal’ in the local language. It came to recognition in the last 3-4 years due to unusual sighting of birds such as Spotted Creeper, Yellow Eyed Pigeon, Stoliczka’s Bushchat and many other species.

A male Bluebull in the grassland

Blackbuck
prime mammal of the Sanctuary
Since last two years I was looking forward to visit this sanctuary for the rewards this place has to offer. But due to my unfixed academic schedule I was not able to plan for this. In October'12 I received a vacancy announcement in an Expedition by ‘Nature India’ planned for Tal Chappar that was going to happen on 13th to 16th October. So without much hesitation I confirmed my participation. I would gladly like to thank Adesh Shivkar and Mandar Khadilkar for the notification and a very successful trip with experience of lots of new birds and nature moments in the excursion.

On the way
The birding towards the Tal began with unexpected appearances by Grey Hornbill and Yellow footed Green Pigeon at Jaipur station. As we moved further towards Chhapar we came across many ducks, plovers and other wetland and scrubland species giving a sign of arrival of winter in the Region. European Roller which is a passage migrant to the country was also sighted number of times that day; which retained its absence in the next days of the tour.

European Roller
A passage migrant to the country seen only in months of September and October
Painted Grasshopper
Black Winged Stilt
The whole team was excited over what the place has to offer. Various water bodies on the way gave rise to exciting moments such as Blue Cheeked Bee-eaters diving in water, courting of Stilts and a game of hide and seek with Painted Snipe. Our expedition continued for the whole morning and further extended until we reached our stay at Sujangarh.

Female Greater Painted Snipe
Courting Black Winged Stilt

Beautiful Black Bucks
On the second day, we departed early morning for the most awaited visit to the sanctuary. The road to the Chhapar village cuts across the sanctuary in two parts; giving lush views of the grassland to the commuter. Many times the Blackbucks and other fauna negotiated the borders of the fence and appeared on the road.

While entering the park, the life that makes its first appearance is the Blackbucks. These antelopes roam here, like kids do in the backyard. It was fabulous to see them running and hopping like children. When alarmed, these antelopes leap into the air followed by other members. The action almost makes them look like they are flying in air, signifying flight and security.

Little Buck in the air
Blackbucks
Sanda
Sanda is the local name for Spiny Tailed Lizard, a species of agamid lizard (family of dragon lizards) found in Kutch and Thar deserts of the Indian Subcontinent. It has distinctive spiny scales and large spines on the tail giving the lizard its name. These lizards are very abundant on the east arid part of the sanctuary and are the main attraction to the raptors and other predators.


Raptor Opportunities
With abundance of prey such as Spiny tailed and Monitor lizards, gerds and other rodents and wide open grassland, here we got to see a variety of birds of prey. Not only raptors belonging to desert and grassland, but also raptors of woods such as Bonelli’s Eagle and Crested Goshawk have been reported from this area. I was fortunate to capture some close stances and good posture in flight.

Common Kestrel
Montagu's Harrier
Laggar Falcon

Spotted Creeper
Sighting of this little bird was like icing on the cake. A Spotted Creeper has strongly spotted and barred plumage making it very difficult to trace on its usual perch of Prosopis cineraria. This tree is locally known as ‘Khejri’ and is of major use to the locals.

A very active bird often climbs up the tree with long toes tipped with strong and curved claws for gripping. There was a pair of these continuously jumping from one tree to another and climbing up. It gave everyone an opportunity to shoot, but a difficult one.

Spotted Creeper
Southern Grey Shrike

Survival of the Sparrow
After tiring session of capturing Sandas, Spotted Creeper and other birds, on the afternoon of the second day, we came to a dhaba near the sanctuary entrance for lunch. Afterlunch it was preferred by some to rest from the horrid sun of the region. But a few of us favoured a small expedition in the surrounding area. Lead by Adesh, we were very lucky to spot another endemic uncommon bird named Rufous Fronted Prinia. We returned back to the dhaba with a few more birds; like this Common Buzzard.

Common Buzzard
Eurasian Collared Dove
One more thing which I noticed around this place was plenty of sparrows feeding on grainy crops, food leftovers and water pots kept for the customers. The House Sparrow, because of its numbers, ubiquity and association with human settlements, the presence or the absence of it is very affecting to the human mind than other birds in the wild. The reason behind mentioning this point here is the conscience that had developed in many minds for past few years regarding the supposed disappearance of this tiny beauties from their Urban Spaces. This place here is a delight to such people as they see a vast number of sparrows. Is the generosity of the locals in keeping food and water resources the reason? Or is there really God’s hand in their survival? These questions might arise in some minds as they see following scene.


Back to Site
We came back to the Sanctuary to sight more birds and other animals. This time a Monitor Lizard gave a visit. After this we headed for a small pond in the Sanctuary. It was very curious to see a Common Kestrel running behind grasshoppers in the open part of the grassland. Such behaviour of this fast species was never seen before. Near the pond, a different species of Pigeon which winters only in the Northern parts of the Country was seen. Yellow Eyed Pigeon, named due to the presence of a yellow ring around eyes has been reported only from here in the state for last four years.

Yellow Eyed Pigeon
An evening in the Sanctuary

Next morning after breakfast with harriers, eagles, Demoiselle Cranes and Bluebulls we headed in search of another uncommon species of corvids known as Punjab Raven. We didn’t get to see this bird but sighted a few other birds on the way adding numbers to the list.

Indian Roller in Flight
White Eyed Buzzard juvenile taking off
White Eyed Buzzard

In the evening we headed for a place south of the Sanctuary.  On the way one more lifer bird, Long Billed Pipit was spotted along with some Indian Bushlarks. The destination was a scrubland around the road populated with few thorny shrubs. On the other side of the road the scrubland was bordered by a sandy patch with few Fox dens in it. Here we sighted the rare Stoliczka’s Bushchat. This species is also seen in Kutch.

Stoliczka's Bushchat
Long Billed Pipit

After some time there was a report of Indian Fox on the other end. We rushed to see this little mammal, but were not able to locate it quickly. Then, at one turn I saw the fox comfortably lying down in a ditch. The fox was very quick to notice my presence and ran away swiftly. The mammal was an adorable being with soft fur and long ears. It almost seemed like one of the soft toys that my mother used to make when I saw it for first time lying on the ground. This could be the reason why a sweet person with deceiving actions is called a fox.

Indian Fox
Montagu's Harrier

Discovering Rarities
The last day of the excursion arrived and we made our move towards Ajmer with plans of visiting Sonkhaliya on the route for the endangered Great Indian Bustard. On the way one of our vehicles got some technical problems and we took a halt at one village near Didwana. As never got enough of it, we took this as an opportunity for one more birding expedition into an unknown land and ventured into a nearby grove. This place was the backyard of several houses together leading towards farms separated by grove of Prosopis cineraria.

But to our surprise, with help of a fellow birder Sandeep, we sighted the Spotted Creeper here again. This was the second location in the country where this bird is seen; first one obviously being the Tal Chhapar Sanctuary. As explained earlier taking shot of this beauty was difficult. After the vehicle was repaired we moved towards Sonkhaliya as planned.

Spotted Creeper re-discovered
The Great Indian Bustard is locally known as ‘Ghodavan’ and is the state bird of Rajastan. We didn’t get to see any Bustard as such but came across such bright colours in otherwise dry region.


Also we saw an Eurasian Eagle Owl, one of the largest species of owl in the world. Specifying its size in figures will be injustice to the experience of seeing the owl flight. Let the photographs determine it……

The Owl on a 25-30 feet high Khejri Tree

Eurasian Eagle Owl in flight




(This Article and the featured Photographs belongs to Sanket Mhatre (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=678844782). No copying or reproduction of any kind permitted without prior written consent of the photographer. Copyright: © Sanket Mhatre, Mumbai, India)